Sabatini Pro Painting610-810-5040Free Estimate
A kitchen with the cabinet frames freshly sprayed white, doors away at the shop
Delaware County, PA ยท Cabinet Painting

Cabinet Painting in Delaware County, Done in a Booth

Doors sprayed in our shop, frames sprayed in your kitchen, using coatings made for cabinets and not for walls. Serving Delaware County, the Main Line, Chester County and Philadelphia.

โ˜… โ˜… โ˜… โ˜… โ˜… Rated by local homeowners 10+ Years in business 231 Google reviews
Before you hire anyone
Cabinets are not walls, and they cannot be painted like walls. Almost all of a cabinet job happens before anything gets sprayed. Your kitchen carries years of cooking grease you cannot see, and the coating that goes on top has to survive a room where doors get pulled a hundred times a week. Get the cleaning, the sanding and the primer right and the finish lasts. Get them wrong and it peels off the door edge within a year, no matter what it cost.
Spraying the island frame in place after the doors came off
Spraying a frame in place. The doors for this kitchen were already at the shop.
Our work

Same cabinets, sprayed

Every one of these is the same kitchen before and after. No doors replaced, no boxes torn out.

Golden oak kitchen cabinets before refinishing
Before
The same oak kitchen after refinishing in white, with the doors back on
After
Golden oak to whiteThe classic 1990s Delco oak kitchen. Solid wood boxes in good shape, wearing a finish nobody wanted any more. Same cabinets, same layout, sprayed.
Dark cherry kitchen cabinets before refinishing
Before
The same kitchen after refinishing, white uppers with a dark island
After
Dark cherry, lightened upWhite on the uppers to open the room up, and the island left dark on purpose. Refinishing lets you split the color that way. Replacing does not, without paying twice.
Green kitchen cabinets masked off partway through refinishing
Before
The finished deep green kitchen with doors and hardware reinstalled
After
Masked, sprayed, rehungThe middle photo of a cabinet job is always the ugly one. Everything masked, doors gone, and a kitchen you cannot fully use. Five or six working days later it is done.
A kitchen mid-refinish, doors removed and the room masked off
Before
The finished kitchen with the doors rehung and hardware back on
After
Doors back onThe doors come home from the shop, the hardware goes back, and we walk the kitchen with you before we leave.
Cabinet work

What we do, and what we will not

Refinishing

We sand everything down, prime it, and spray the top coat, paint or stain. This is the one people mean when they say cabinet painting.

Painting with a brush and roller

Plenty of companies do this and call it the same thing. It is not. Put the two finishes side by side and the difference is obvious from across the room.

Refacing

New doors, existing frames. The catch is color: the frames have to be sprayed with the same amount of paint as the doors, using the same process, or they will not match.

Kitchen cabinets

The most-used surface in your house. Everything we choose, primer through top coat, is picked for a room where doors get pulled a hundred times a week and somebody cleans a spill off the front.

Bathroom vanities & built-ins

Same process, smaller room. Vanities take a beating from water and hand oils, so the coating matters as much as it does in a kitchen.

What we will tell you not to refinish

If your cabinets are MDF or HDF rather than wood, we will tell you to replace the doors instead. The coating is only as good as what it is sticking to.

Our process

How the job goes

  1. We take the doors off and they go to the shop

    Doors and drawer fronts come off and go back to our shop, where they get sanded, primed and sprayed. Everything that cannot move, the frames and the boxes, gets done in your house. Roughly two days here and three days at the shop.

  2. We degrease, and then we sand anyway

    A kitchen is covered in cooking grease you cannot see. We hit it with a degreaser and a microfiber rag, and then we sand it regardless, because degreasing alone does not get it all. If grease is left behind, it shows up the moment the primer goes on and the whole thing has to be redone.

  3. We prime for the cabinets you actually have

    Filthy, greasy cabinets get a shellac primer, which locks the contamination down and shows us any spot we missed while there is still time to fix it. Clean or new cabinets get a wood-coating primer. We do not use oil primer: the smell hangs in a house for weeks and hand oils break it down.

  4. We spray, and we measure what we spray

    Every product has its own needle, its own pressure and its own amount that has to go on for the coating to bond. Owning a sprayer is not the same as knowing that. This is the part that separates a finish that lasts from one that peels.

  5. We put it back together

    Doors come back from the shop, hardware goes on, and we walk the kitchen with you.

The refrigerator and the surrounding opening fully masked before any spraying starts
Masking is not a formality. Overspray does not come off a countertop or a stainless door.
How it works

How long your kitchen is out of action

Two days in your house and three days at our shop, so about five to six working days start to finish on a typical kitchen. The doors leave on day one and come back at the end.

You keep your counters, your appliances and your sink the whole time. What you lose is cabinet doors, and only while they are being sprayed and cured properly.

If somebody quotes you two days for a full kitchen, ask them what they are skipping. It is almost always the degreasing or the cure time, and you will find out which one about a year later.

What goes wrong

The five mistakes we see most

We get called in to redo other people's cabinet jobs often enough that we have a list. Here it is, worst first.

  • Using wall paint on cabinetsThe big one. Wall paints are made for walls. They never fully cure, so the surface stays slightly tacky, anything that touches it bonds to it, and the door starts peeling within weeks. The can may say you can use it on cabinets. That is advertising.
  • Skipping the degreasingYou can sand a greasy cabinet and it will look clean. Then the primer goes on and every spot you missed appears.
  • Brushing and rollingBeyond the texture, you have no idea how much paint you actually put on. Bonding depends on the right amount of primer and the right amount of top coat, and a brush cannot measure.
  • Refinishing cabinets that are not woodExpensive coating on MDF or HDF is money you will not get back. It will not hold.
  • Spraying in the wrong placeAsk any company where they spray your doors. A garage or a bare warehouse means dust and damp air in the finish. It needs a real booth with conditioned air and a compressor that delivers dry air to the gun.
The island after its coats, still masked, floors protected
Coated and still masked. The floors stay covered right through to the last day.
Up close

A closer look at the work

Kitchen cabinets before refinishing, dated finish against a dark countertop
BeforeSolid wood cabinets in good shape, just wearing a finish nobody wanted any more. This is the ideal candidate.
Cabinet frames masked off and the doors removed and sent to the shop
Doors off, everything maskedDoors and drawer fronts leave for the shop. What stays gets masked off to the inch, because overspray does not come out of a countertop.
A kitchen with the cabinet frames freshly sprayed white, doors away at the shop
Frames sprayed in placeThe frames get the same product and the same number of coats as the doors. That is the only way the color matches when they come back.
The refrigerator and the surrounding opening fully masked before any spraying starts
Appliances and openings masked before a drop of anything is sprayed.
Spraying the island frame in place after the doors came off
Spraying the island frame in place, doors already gone to the shop.
The island after its coats, still masked, floors protected
The island coated and still masked. Floors stay covered until the last day.
Finished island frame in white, doors away at the shop being sprayed
The finished island frame. The doors come back and go straight on.
Base cabinet frames sprayed and cured, ready for the doors to go back on
Base frames sprayed and cured, waiting on doors.
Straight from your neighbors

What homeowners say about our work

Taking paper down instead?
Good to know

Questions we get asked

Base cabinet frames sprayed and cured, ready for the doors to go back on
Frames cured and ready. The doors come back from the shop and go straight on.
What is the difference between cabinet refinishing, cabinet painting and refacing?

Refinishing means we sand everything down, prime it and spray a new top coat, either paint or stain. What a lot of companies call cabinet painting is a brush and a roller, and the finish is not in the same league. Refacing means new doors on your existing frames, and the thing people miss there is that the frames still have to be sprayed with the same product and the same number of coats as the new doors or the colors will not match.

Can you use regular wall paint on kitchen cabinets?

No, and this is the single most common reason a cabinet job fails. Wall paints are formulated for walls. They never dry all the way through, so the surface stays very slightly tacky. Anything that touches it bonds to it, and within a few weeks of normal use the paint starts coming off the door edge where your hand goes. The label may say the product is suitable for cabinets. That is advertising, not performance. We use wood coatings made for cabinetry, which cure hard and stay flexible enough to take a knock without chipping.

How long does it take, and do I lose my kitchen?

About two days in your house and three days in our shop, so five to six working days for a typical kitchen. You keep your sink, your counters and your appliances the whole time. What you are without is doors, and only while they cure properly.

Why does it take that long? Someone quoted me two days.

Because almost all of the work is preparation. If the surface is cleaned, sanded and primed properly, spraying the top coat is the fast part. If it is not, the job takes just as long anyway because it has to be done twice. When a quote is dramatically shorter, something is being skipped, and it is usually the degreasing or the cure time.

Do you have to sand? I thought there were liquid deglossers.

We degrease first, and then we sand regardless. Kitchen cabinets carry years of cooking grease that a rag and a cleaner will not fully lift. You cannot see what is left, but the primer can. Any spot that was missed shows through as soon as the first coat goes on, and then that section has to be stripped back and redone.

What primer do you use, and does it matter?

It depends on what we are looking at. Greasy, heavily used cabinets get a shellac-based primer, which locks down contamination and, usefully, reveals any area we did not get fully clean while there is still time to fix it. Cleaner or newer cabinets get a wood-coating primer. We avoid oil-based primer entirely: the smell lingers in a house for weeks after we leave, and hand oils break oil primer down over time.

Should I refinish my cabinets or replace them?

If they are solid wood and the boxes and hinges are sound, refinishing is almost always the better spend. If they are MDF or HDF rather than wood, we will tell you to replace the doors instead. The products and the process we use are expensive, and putting them on a substrate that will not hold them is money you do not get back. The coating is only ever as good as the cabinet under it.

Why do painted cabinets chip?

Usually use, not the paint. Kitchens take more abuse than any other room in the house: dogs, kids, things piled on open drawers, corners caught with a hip on the way past. We have gone back to kitchens ten years later that still look great, and back to kitchens a year later that were beaten up. Treat them the way you would treat a new car and they hold up.

How can I tell whether a cabinet company knows what they are doing?

Two questions. Ask what products they use and how they prep. Then ask where they spray your doors. A lot of companies spray in a garage or a bare warehouse, and dust and damp air end up in your finish. It needs a proper booth with conditioned air, extraction, and a compressor delivering dry air to the gun. Ask to see video of their actual process, not just finished photos.

Isn't spraying just spraying? I have a sprayer.

The gun is the easy part. Every product has its own needle size, its own pressure, its own type of air and its own amount that has to go on for the coating to bond properly. Five products means five setups. Hand somebody five products and one gun and they will use the same needle for all of them, and you will see it in the finish. That knowledge is most of what you are paying for.

Can you match my existing color, or do I have to pick a new one?

Either. We can match what is on there now or spray whatever color you choose.

How durable is the finish?

Very. We have gone back into kitchens we did ten years earlier to do other work and the cabinets still looked good. The finish is at least as tough as the factory coating that was on them originally, partly because of how it is applied: the right primer, the right number of coats, and the right amount of material each time.

Do you do bathroom vanities and built-ins too?

Yes, same process. Vanities in particular take a beating from water and hand oils, so the coating choice matters just as much as it does in a kitchen.

What does cabinet painting cost?

It depends on the number of doors and drawer fronts, the condition they are in, and whether you are painting or staining. We look at the kitchen, tell you honestly whether refinishing is the right call, and put the price in writing before we start.

Do you offer free estimates?

Always. We walk the kitchen with you and send a clear, detailed proposal at no cost.

Request your free cabinet estimate

Tell us the room and the paper you have in mind. You get a clear written price, gone through with you in person.

Send a photo of your kitchen if you have one handy. A real person will get back to you.

See Our Job Stories →

Not sure whether to refinish or replace?

Send us the room and the product and we will tell you what it takes to hang it right, and what it costs, before you order a single roll.

Get Your Free Estimate ๐Ÿ“ž (610) 810-5040